In the heart of London’s bustling Borough Market, you’ll find a culinary love letter to Iraq: the JUMA Kitchen food stall. Behind it is a man named Philip Juma — a self-taught chef of English-Irish-Iraqi heritage who never quite felt “Iraqi enough” until food gave him a way to belong.
We had the chance to talk with him about his journey — how it started, what inspired it, and everything in between.
How Did It Start?
It started with a suitcase. “When my aunties came from Baghdad, they’d open their suitcases on the kitchen floor. Inside were spices, basterma, nuts, tourshi, frozen kubba — all unpacked like treasures.”
As a child, Philip didn’t yet understand the weight of those ingredients. Today, they’re sacred.
“I didn’t appreciate the significance of it back then, but now I am fighting to preserve those recipes and traditions.”
Too English to Be Iraqi? Too Iraqi to Be English?
Born to English, Irish, and Iraqi heritage, Philip felt caught between identities. “I never truly felt ‘Iraqi enough’. I was a self-taught chef with a name like ‘Philip’ who didn’t speak Arabic. What on earth was I thinking!?”
But it was London’s grit — and his own confidence — that gave him the space to explore. That self-assurance opened kitchen doors, sparked opportunities, and empowered him to create something unapologetically Iraqi.
Quitting Finance, Chasing Fire
Leaving finance didn’t send him straight into the kitchen. Instead, he took a role as an account manager at an energy consultancy, where the slower pace gave him time to pick up shifts in different restaurants.
Then came November 2013 — and his first pop-up, a turning point that made him realise he wanted to “go for it.” But breaking into hospitality from scratch came with its own hurdles, both financial and personal.
“I had to work hard for a few years before I took the jump, and telling my dad was the hardest part!”
The Supper Club That Shocked Everyone
JUMA Kitchen began as a supper club. And the audience reaction? “It was 90% non-Iraqis, and the reception was wild. I’ll never forget their reactions to the kubba hamuth or the dolma.”
Looking back, he admits he had no idea what he was doing — the timings were off, the portion sizes far too big. Still, for Juma, it was one of those nights that stays with you, a messy, exhilarating start that hinted at everything to come.
The Leap to Borough Market
Pop-ups were never easy for him. He once had to borrow freezer space from strangers just to store his kubba. At one pop-up, he faced a classic case of kitchen sabotage. “The head chef didn’t like a newbie—me—coming into his territory, and I remember he kept moving my dolma pot off the heat on purpose.”
Those chaotic nights made one thing clear: control is everything. “Having my own space at Borough means I finally have that control — and a home where people can come and celebrate our cuisine.”
Putting Iraq on London’s Food Map
When Philip started, Iraqi food was invisible on the London scene, particularly in the pop-up world. “I knew that the dishes I grew up eating — Baba’s biryani, dolma, kubba hamuth, to name a few — all had their place in London’s food scene.” The street-food craze really changed things, and he feels honored to be part of that movement.
The Rise of the Kubba (and Amba)
Unsurprisingly, kubba in all its forms has become JUMA’s star dish — particularly when paired with their legendary Amba sauce. “Any kubba dish I served brought about a real wow factor. I think it was the textures and flavors that really made people go crazy.”
Using Food to Change the Narrative
Philip sees food as a powerful way to challenge misconceptions about Iraq and showcase its rich, often overlooked culture. Growing up in the diaspora, he noticed that the stories told about Iraq in the media were far from the vibrant reality he knew. So, he wanted to tell the real story through food.
“The intricacy of the techniques, the delicate spicing, the unapologetic approach to Iraqi dishes — not calling them Middle Eastern — were all things I became obsessed with, and people could feel that passion!”
It’s not just a plate. It’s a whole Iraqi narrative in the heart of London.
The Power of the Flip
One of JUMA Kitchen’s signature moments happens every Sunday: the dolma flip. A giant pot turned upside-down in one dramatic movement, revealing a mosaic of perfectly layered vegetables and rice. “It’s a snapshot of my upbringing and Iraqi homes. Doing it in front of a global audience at Borough Market is very special.”
It’s such a beautiful way to connect heritage with the world.
What If JUMA Kitchen Were a Movie?
If JUMA Kitchen were a movie, Philip told us that it would be “an underdog film.”
The journey has been tough, and most people don’t realize just how demanding hospitality can be. Bringing Iraqi cuisine to the main stage has been a major achievement — yet it still feels like an underdog in a food scene dominated by big money and heavy investment.
JUMA Kitchen has none of that backing. What it has is pure grit, passion, and the promise that there’s so much more to come.
A UFO-Shaped Underdog
If there’s one dish he wishes more Brits would try, it’s Kubba Mosul. “It looks like a brown, unattractive frisbee UFO,” Philip said, “but I love it.”
Hey Next Generation
When asked what advice he’d give Arab chefs wanting to make their mark in London, Philip’s answer is simple: DO IT.
“Learn your craft. Be curious. And bring something different to the table. Don’t be in the industry if you don’t love people and serving others. It just won’t work.”
Juma goes on to highlight that, “Good food will always rise to the top, but be prepared for the rollercoaster highs and lows of hospitality life!”
We think Philip isn’t just cooking for today — he’s cooking for the kid who once watched his aunties unpack those suitcases, not knowing the significance.
Now, he knows.
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